Lucknow Chikankari Embroidery Muslin Uttar Pradesh

Chikankari is a delicate white-on-white or coloured embroidery on muslin and georgette fabric associated with Lucknow, developed under Nawabi court patronage of Awadh in the 18th century, where 32 distinct stitch types are used to create shadow work, raised work, and cut work effects producing gossamer-light garments of extraordinary refinement. The embroidery includes flat stitches (taipchi, phanda, murri), pulled thread techniques creating net-like openwork (jaali), raised satin stitch (keel kangan), and stem stitch (bakhiya). Traditionally worked by Muslim artisan women in the mohallas of Chowk, Aminabad, and surrounding Lucknow localities. Chikankari has GI protection. Today 250,000+ artisans produce Chikankari, predominantly women working as home piece-rate embroiderers in a cottage industry supply chain. The industry generates ₹2,500 crore annually. Contemporary Chikankari uses cotton, georgette, and crepe fabrics with coloured thread embroidery alongside traditional white-on-white. Fabindia, Anokhi, and national boutique chains have expanded the market significantly, and export to NRI fashion markets worldwide is established.