Thirty Weavers, One Vision: Bembem Devi and the Manipur Gamcha
Ayeakbam Bembem Devi
The question this story follows:
“Can a 30-weaver gamcha centre survive on paper-thin margins, or will the economics of handloom eventually force Bembem Devi to choose between tradition and sustainability?”
Ayeakbam Bembem Devi runs a 30-weaver centre producing Manipur gamcha — their work reached the Miss India stage, but thin margins threaten every thread.
Ayeakbam Bembem Devi started weaving at 18 after training at a government institute of handloom and handicrafts in Imphal. Today she runs a weaving centre in Heingang, Imphal East, with 30 weavers on wooden handloom machines — all of them producing the Manipur gamcha, the iconic woven cloth central to Meitei culture.
Their gamcha was showcased at the Miss India Manipur 2022-23 pageant — a moment of national recognition for a craft that earns barely Rs 30 margin per piece. Each gamcha sells for Rs 350, with a raw material investment of Rs 320. The arithmetic is unforgiving. Yet Bembem Devi has 30 weavers depending on this work.
Their most distinctive product is the kanglasha — cloth with animal prints, produced both by hand and by machine, with the handmade version commanding a higher price. Bembem Devi is working to expand the centre and teach more people. Her message: work hard, and make craft that makes your state proud.
Updates
Episode 1: Ayeakbam Bembem Devi — Thirty Weavers, One Gamcha
My name is Ayeakbam Bembem Devi. I live in the East district of Imphal. I learned weaving through a government institute of handloom and handicrafts, and I have been in this craft since the age of 18.
Our speciality is the Manipur gamcha — and our work was showcased at the Miss India Manipur 2022-23 pageant. We source our materials from the market. Each gamcha is priced at Rs 350, though our investment is around Rs 320, which leaves only a small margin.
Under my weaving centre, I have 30 weavers working on wooden handloom machines. We always keep stock ready, which is why we are well known and have many regular clients.
The biggest challenges are low profit and an unpredictable market. There are months when sales go completely quiet. Our most unique product is the kanglasha — cloth with animal prints, produced both by hand and by machine. The handmade kanglasha commands a higher price.
We are working to expand the centre and teach more people this craft. My message to India: work hard, and make craft that makes your state proud.