Koli Handloom Cotton Weaving of Aravalli

The Koli weaver community of Aravalli district has practised cotton handloom weaving for centuries, producing utilitarian and ceremonial cloth for local communities. Koli weavers use simple fly-shuttle frame looms set up in the ground floor of their homes, weaving cotton cloth (kapdu) in plain weave with coloured border stripes. Traditional Koli fabric is woven in natural undyed cotton with indigo and madder (manjistha) dyed borders. Ceremonial cloth woven for deity offerings (arpan vastra) uses specific colour combinations dictated by ritual tradition. The Koli textile tradition is distinct from the elaborate brocade weaving of Surat or the patola of Patan: it is a practical domestic production for everyday use, not export craft. Declining demand from factory-produced cheap fabric has made handloom weaving economically marginal. KVIC (Khadi and Village Industries Commission) supports Koli weavers through yarn supply and marketing.