Telia Rumal Double Ikat Tradition of Telangana

Telia Rumal (oil cloth handkerchief) is a rare double-ikat woven cotton textile from the Chirala and Nalgonda areas of Telangana, historically produced using a distinctive oil treatment of yarn before resist-tying that gives the finished cloth a characteristic sheen and flexibility. The design uses geometric patterns in black, red, and white — typical of the double-ikat technique where both warp and weft threads are tied and dyed before weaving. Telia Rumal was historically used as a waist cloth and turban by Andhra and Telugu trading communities, and was exported to Oman and the Persian Gulf as a valued textile. GI certification was awarded for Telia Rumal. The craft nearly died out in the 20th century but has been revived by craft scholars and the Crafts Council of India. Contemporary production is limited to a handful of weavers in Puttapaka village. High-end fashion designers have incorporated Telia Rumal yardage into luxury collections.