Tangaliya Woven Dot Shawl of Gujarat

Tangaliya is a unique weaving technique from Surendranagar district of Gujarat in which extra warp threads are wrapped around weft threads at regular intervals to create raised dots (dagla) of different colours on the fabric surface. The dots form traditional tribal geometric patterns — diagonal lines, chevrons, and lozenge grids. The Dangasia Koli community of Surendranagar are the sole weavers of this technique. Tangaliya received GI certification and won the National Crafts Award. The technique is structurally different from embroidery — the dots are structural part of the weave, not added after. Traditional shawls were worn by the Koli bride as a sign of her community identity. Production is threatened by dwindling weaver numbers — fewer than 50 families practice the full technique today. State and central craft boards have run training programmes to pass the technique to the next generation. Premium collectors and fashion designers pay Rs 5000 to Rs 25000 per piece.